Sunday, December 30, 2018
Friday, December 28, 2018
Thursday, December 27, 2018
I am done with the Darien Gap
I just finished a great book about a man's motorcycle journey in the mid-80s through the jungle and swamps.
I've come to the conclusion that unless they build a road between Panama and Colombia (which will never happen), I won't be crossing it by foot. It's simply too risky. Even though I figured out an easy way to do most of the Panama side by boat, the Colombian side is just too fraught with danger (criminals, paramilitaries, bugs, snakes, nature).
The Colombian side (Choco Province) was infested with FARC and the whole area was then obliterated by the government. This documentary gives you a flavor of the region, which is just starting to repopulate.
I've come to the conclusion that unless they build a road between Panama and Colombia (which will never happen), I won't be crossing it by foot. It's simply too risky. Even though I figured out an easy way to do most of the Panama side by boat, the Colombian side is just too fraught with danger (criminals, paramilitaries, bugs, snakes, nature).
The Colombian side (Choco Province) was infested with FARC and the whole area was then obliterated by the government. This documentary gives you a flavor of the region, which is just starting to repopulate.
Saturday, December 22, 2018
Definitive detailed Darien Gap map (Panama side)
I created this map from maps I purchased from the Tommy Guardia National Geographic Institute in Panama City. The highlighted route is the safest* and quickest route from Yaviza (the end of the Pan-American Highway) to the village of Paya by motorized dugout canoe (piragua) (67 miles) to the Colombian border (Palo de Letras) by foot (8 miles).
*Not safe.
RIO CHUCUNAQUE
Yaviza had a population of 4,441 in 2010. This is where I ended my 2013 bus trip. It's a pretty vibrant town, composed of descendants of escaped African slaves and indigenous tribes. Go to the dock and get on a boat! It should take a whole day to get to Paya.
RIO TIURA
Once you get to El Real, you take the Rio Tiura. The next settlement is Pinogana (405 people in 2010).
All of these photos of the villages were tweeted by Panama's border police SENAFRONT.
Yape had a population of 187 in 2010.
Boca de Cupe had a population of 1,167 in 2010. Here is a great story about a recent visit to the town and a description of all the murders and kidnappings by Colombian rebels and paramilitaries in the area, which in turn resulted in the heavy SENAFRONT presence.
The final settlement before turning onto the Rio Paya is El Balsal.
RIO PAYA
Finally, Paya (639 residents in 2010). This is the end of the navigable river. From here, you have to walk to the border with Colombia.
*Not safe.
RIO CHUCUNAQUE
Yaviza had a population of 4,441 in 2010. This is where I ended my 2013 bus trip. It's a pretty vibrant town, composed of descendants of escaped African slaves and indigenous tribes. Go to the dock and get on a boat! It should take a whole day to get to Paya.
RIO TIURA
Once you get to El Real, you take the Rio Tiura. The next settlement is Pinogana (405 people in 2010).
All of these photos of the villages were tweeted by Panama's border police SENAFRONT.
Brindando un apoyo a los más necesitados, entregamos bolsas de alimento a las familias damnificadas de la comunidad de Pinogana, provincia de Darién. #ProgresoSeguro pic.twitter.com/PdRtNbLLr5— SENAFRONT PANAMÁ (@senafrontpanama) April 23, 2018
The next settlement is Vista Alegre, a Wounaan village.
Unidades del Puesto Avanzado de Vigilancia de Vista Alegre #Darién visitan los comercios de la comunidad dando seguimiento a los programas preventivos de #SeguridadCiudadana #ProgresoSeguro #Marca109 @minsegpanama @senafrontpanama pic.twitter.com/oW2HnS8NSn— Batallón Central SENAFRONT (@BatallonCentral) November 7, 2018
Next up, Union Choco.
Unidades del Puesto Avanzado de Vigilancia de Unión Chocó #Darién brindan Matiné con películas educativas a los niños de la comunidad #10AñosSenafront #ServimosConPasión #CentinelasDeLaPatria @minsegpanama @senafrontpanama pic.twitter.com/PlndHIi89g— Batallón Central SENAFRONT (@BatallonCentral) November 27, 2018
Yape had a population of 187 in 2010.
Junto a niños y jóvenes de la comunidad de Yape #Darién realizamos jornada de limpieza de desechos. Instruyéndolos a conservar el medio ambiente y vivir en un lugar limpio y seguro #ProgresoSeguro #Marca109 #SeguridadCiudadana @minsegpanama @senafrontpanama pic.twitter.com/qar4gi3ec3— Batallón Central SENAFRONT (@BatallonCentral) August 26, 2018
Capeti had 957 residents in 2008.
Por la salud y bienestar de los moradores de Capetí, Darién; apoyamos en construir una zanja para denaje y así evitar criaderos de mosquitos. #ProgresoSeguro #Marca109 pic.twitter.com/vMMqKqNQQn— SENAFRONT PANAMÁ (@senafrontpanama) March 2, 2018
Boca de Cupe had a population of 1,167 in 2010. Here is a great story about a recent visit to the town and a description of all the murders and kidnappings by Colombian rebels and paramilitaries in the area, which in turn resulted in the heavy SENAFRONT presence.
Inicia la 8va. Feria del Ñame en la comunidad de Boca de Cupe #Darién con la participación del Conjunto Típico de los Hermanos Valdés y las actividades que realizamos con los niños del sector. #ProgresoSeguro #Marca109 #SeguridadCiudadana @BatallonCentral @minsegpanama pic.twitter.com/SGi6thHEi1— SENAFRONT PANAMÁ (@senafrontpanama) August 15, 2018
Al cruzar el Tapón del Darién nos topamos con las dificultades que enfrentan los agricultores de Boca de Cupe. Pero en uno de los territorios menos accesibles de América Latina también encontramos otras historias ➡️ https://t.co/TwZ9jBQoZU pic.twitter.com/1S93OXQ2V0— BBC News Mundo (@bbcmundo) February 1, 2018
Apoyamos en la gira interinstitucional organizada por #Seprodacan y llevamos ayuda social a moradores de las comunidades de Matuganti, Sobiaquiru, Balsal y Boca de Paya en #Darién en apoyo al @imapanama #ProgresoSeguro pic.twitter.com/NuEMRDfppv— SENAFRONT PANAMÁ (@senafrontpanama) February 23, 2018
RIO PAYA
Finally, Paya (639 residents in 2010). This is the end of the navigable river. From here, you have to walk to the border with Colombia.
Unidades del Puesto Avanzado de Vigilancia de Paya #Darién realizan visitas #Preventivas a diferentes residencias de la comunidad #10AñosSenafront #ServimosConPasión #CentinelasDeLaPatria @minsegpanama @senafrontpanama pic.twitter.com/lM1lElKFwf— Batallón Central SENAFRONT (@BatallonCentral) November 27, 2018
This video gives you a pretty good idea of the scenery along the rivers, from Yaviza to Paya:
And this obelisk (Palo de Letras) marks the border.
Thursday, December 20, 2018
Eating the Globe: Palestine
I'm a simple man with simple needs. My wife asked what I wanted for Christmas and I responded: "A meal at a Palestinian joint!"
The bread was by far the highlight. It came straight out of the oven, with steam inside. It was both chewy and firm.
Countries tried so far:
Africa: Algeria, DR Congo, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Kenya, Liberia, Madagascar, Mauritius, Morocco, Mozambique, Niger, Nigeria, Somalia, South Africa, Sudan, Tunisia, Zimbabwe
Asia: Afghanistan, Armenia, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Burma, Cambodia, China, Georgia, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Japan, Jordan, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lebanon, Malaysia, Maldives, Mongolia, Nepal, North Korea, Pakistan, Palestine, Philippines, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Syria, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Vietnam, Yemen
Europe: Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czechia, Denmark,
North America: Belize, Canada, Cuba, Dominica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Jamaica, Mexico, Nicaragua, St Kitts & Nevis, Trinidad & Tobago, USA
South America: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay, Venezuela
Oceania: Australia, Fiji, Samoa, Tonga
Monday, December 17, 2018
Darien Gap and Road of Bones in HD
It's obvious that the Darien Gap in Panama-Colombia and the Road of Bones in the Russian Far East are my two top dream destinations. With the world getting smaller and technology advancing every day, these places are not Terra Incognita anymore.
Last night, I watched a survival show where a guy with no supplies, water, or food trekked from the Pacific Ocean, through a portion of the Darien Gap, to a town south of Yaviza.
This morning, I watched a 60 Minutes piece on the coldest town in the world, right along the Road of Bones.
Last night, I watched a survival show where a guy with no supplies, water, or food trekked from the Pacific Ocean, through a portion of the Darien Gap, to a town south of Yaviza.
This morning, I watched a 60 Minutes piece on the coldest town in the world, right along the Road of Bones.
What a time to be alive for the armchair explorer!
Sunday, December 16, 2018
Thursday, December 13, 2018
Eating the Globe: St Kitts & Nevis
Yesterday, I made pelau, which is related to the Silk Road rice dish of plov/pilaf. For this Caribbean entree, the recipe called for melting brown cane sugar first and cooking the rice in half regular water and half coconut water.
I've been sick for over a week now and my taste buds are 70% ineffective, but this tasted really good! I'm going to try making it again.
Countries tried so far:
Africa: Algeria, DR Congo, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Kenya, Liberia, Madagascar, Mauritius, Morocco, Mozambique, Niger, Nigeria, Somalia, South Africa, Sudan, Tunisia, Zimbabwe
Asia: Afghanistan, Armenia, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Burma, Cambodia, China, Georgia, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Japan, Jordan, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lebanon, Malaysia, Maldives, Mongolia, Nepal, North Korea, Pakistan, Philippines, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Syria, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Vietnam, Yemen
Europe: Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czechia, Denmark,
North America: Belize, Canada, Cuba, Dominica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Jamaica, Mexico, Nicaragua, St Kitts & Nevis, Trinidad & Tobago, USA
South America: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay, Venezuela
Oceania: Australia, Fiji, Samoa, Tonga
Monday, December 10, 2018
VW Dieselgate is NatGeo's photo of the year
View this post on InstagramA post shared by National Geographic (@natgeo) on
Wednesday, December 05, 2018
140-car Youngtimer collection up for auction
For some unknown reason, a very wealthy British-American collector is giving up all his cars. If I had lottery money, I would get the:
- Aston Martin Lagonda,
- Ferrari 412,
- Mercedes 500SEC AMG 6.0 Wide-Body,
- Mercedes W124 E60 AMG,
- Ferrari 575M Maranello,
- 1993 RX-7,
- Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo,
- 1994 Toyota Supra,
- Bentley Turbo RL,
- Renault 5 Turbo 2,
- 1989 BMW 750iL,
- 1999 BMW M5,
- 1979 Mercedes AMG 500TE,
- 1995 Mercedes S600 L,
- 1990 Rolls-Royce Corniche III
Relocating Rohingya refugees onto a deserted island
The Bangladesh government wants to move hundreds of thousands of refugees to Char Vasan/Bhasan Char, a low lying uninhabited island.
Here is an article with more information.
Tuesday, December 04, 2018
I'm going to the Indy 500!
I just bought my plane ticket. Now I just have to scrounge up a decent seat at the race. I'm looking at Penthouse level at Sections A, B, and E next to Turn 1.
Hopefully, Alonso will win.
If anyone has tips on places to visit and eat for the weekend, please share!
Hopefully, Alonso will win.
If anyone has tips on places to visit and eat for the weekend, please share!